Wednesday, December 16, 2020

辛德里咖哩 Delhi Bistro Curries Taichung

 

No. 11, Lane 155, Wenhua Road, Xitun District, Taichung City, 407

407台中市西屯區文華路15511

11AM–2PM, 5–10PM04 2452 0431

5JJW+C9 Xitun District, Taichung City

My wife and I visited my friend Bivan’s Indian restaurant near Fengjia University’s famous night market in April 2020. I had befriended Bivan on Facebook a few years before through a mutual interest in Taiwan cricket league without realizing he was a Taichung neighbor. We had never met in person so when I found out he opened a restaurant, I got in my car, found an inexpensive parking lot nearby, and went there for lunch and to meet him and try some dishes. The food was great but, unfortunately, he wasn’t there; instead we talked by phone and I took a photo, as a joke, to prove I was really there.


How pleased we were with the dishes! We started with our favorites, the best way to compare restaurants with similar dishes; the mutton saag (lamb in creamed spinach sauce) was my choice and my wife had an amazing fish curry, both with generous amounts of tasty sauce spiced to our liking, for dipping nan into. With an extensive menu of five Biriyani and salads, nine kinds of chicken curry and vegetarian each, drinks, sweet, alcoholic, hot and cold, it was hard to make up our minds.

The funniest thing was, after our visit, I slipped back into Facebook contact with my friend but couldn’t find the time to go visit soon enough. “No problem,” Bivan said, “I can deliver it to you.” Despite our living on the other side of town with a day’s notice, his restaurant came to us with, fresh, hot and spicy specialties. I cannot be too lazy to go to Delhi Bistro Curries as Bivan often has special events planned and even English meet-ups for local Taiwanese diners. The inexpensive lunch specials including rice, curry and drink are perfect for students on a budget from the university within walking distance, with more than enough portion to fill their hungry stomachs and introduce them to international foods.

We will not be strangers to Bivan or his fine cuisine anymore. In person, take-out or delivered, it breaks the mold of Chinese food and is a perfect place for a dinner or party, if you can take your eyes off the beautiful ceiling lamp and décor and stop eating long enough to gaze lovingly at your date when enjoying your meal at Delhi Bistro Curries Taichung. Vaahavaahee Bivan! And solidarity, too!  


Wednesday, December 2, 2020

A Deluge of Rescued Books & An Eslite Clearance


          In September, 2020, the nice couple in my condominium suffered a devastating stroke. I watched crestfallen as the ambulance that had turned off its siren, parked outside our building’s entrance and a gurney carried my neighbor into the back and drove away, siren on. The nonagenarians’ wife had brain surgery, and the husband, George D. Chow, a failing heart broken by his wife's demise. Two good daughters were helping the elderly couple cope with the tragedy. The daughters, one returning from the US, sold the condo in our building below market price to consolidate their losses and bring their parents to live with them up north near Taipei.

            George D. Chow is quite a scholarly man; an English major in college in Taiwan, and an avid reader, a conservative supporter of the KMT, mostly in traditional Chinese, of course, but also the classics in English literature and some anti-communist propaganda. The daughters started removing books from their sold condo and putting them in our meeting room for anyone to take before they were carted away by a paper recycler. I was there the first day to collect over two dozen books, mostly Taiwan issued hard covers now illegal and out of print. I had to leave more than I could handle; complete volumes on American and British literature, a complete Shakespeare which, on second thought, I would grab the next day along with others they would be bringing down. I lined them up atop the bookcase in my study for there was no more space in the bookcases. 

            By the end of October, I had taken around sixty books from the tables in the meeting room and was waiting for more books to be brought downstairs. Books are my most reliable companions in Taiwan next to my wife and the cats. I never read so much in the States as I do here because I never had so much free time that wasn’t obscured by cannabis, my family of four children, and the high school students I taught for twenty five years. I drink weekend evenings here and that is all, cannabis being rare and illegal. The rest of the time I’m sober and cognizant. I usually read about two hours a day either by the riverside, up the Han, or occasionally on my patio, enclosed or outside; but I rarely read at home for all the distractions, except for when I am studying Mandarin in which case I welcome distractions. 

            As I skimmed through the books I rescued from the meeting room, I had fun; a few pages of The Godfather here David Frost's The American there, and The Rising Sun admitting Japan did it to save Asia from white gringos. There was Ibsen 6 Plays and another volume with 15 classics. Wow! There were so many books that I took snapshots of them with my smartphone instead of trying to copy the names down in my journal. They look great atop the bookcases and there they will stay, with a common theme: The Rescued. 

           I was on the brink of reading James Joyce. I'm still afraid but I got Ulysses and a Joyce collection from the meeting room now on top of the bookcase in the study. I watched three YouTube videos about how to approach the book and even considered one handbook one reviewer suggested for pathways through Ulysses.  

            At Brian’s Delicatesses Desmarais one evening, I sat at the bar having a beer and talked to Andrew and Walter; Andrew about literature (he has published a novel, too) and Walter about his job near Taichung Airport in the industry. Andrew, who teaches at the same school as Brian, introduced a few books emblematic of the ‘50’s; Updike was too tame for him.  I also asked for advice on reading James Joyce whose Ulysses and The Essential collection I rescued from the meeting room. ‘Read the Essential first,’ he advised, then listen to Ulysses on YouTube to get the inflection,’ he suggested

          There was so much literature on the top of the bookcase from our neighbor's clearing house. I was into David Frost's Americans and Mario Puzo's Godfather but everything else was read a few minute only while seated on the toilet. I am a slow reader and there are other books I bought recently, like Deng Xiaoping that came first. With more books to come, and the Eslite clearance starting the next Wednesday, it was a bit overwhelming,

         The day the Eslite book/CD/record clearance at Chung-Yo Dept. Store began, I went for first dibs. I went realizing their English and CD selection have gotten smaller and smaller over the years. Their records were new, not used, and not cheap at all. Going is a social event as well as a shopping event; it is something else to do. I don't need any more books, especially after the ones I got from our meeting room. Furthermore, it was disheartening to see that for $1.99 I could get 57 classic books on Amazon Kindle, but my cache from the meeting room was free and old books smell, look, and feel better, anyway, plus they are easier on the eyes.

         I was monk-ish one evening with no food or drink but water as I perused the books I bought at the Eslite clearance the day before. This year, English books, CD's and LP's were only 50% off as opposed to 70% in past years but it didn't make me limit what I wanted; books in Chinese were still six for 500 Taiwan dollars; about $17 U.S. I bought the books I could imagine myself reading sooner than later, and only one book about China, The Battle For China's Past, about how the Cultural Revolution and Mao remain influential for most Chinese. I passed over a few other history books about Jiang Ching and the ''disruptive" Cultural Revolution knowing they'd be negative assessments and not constructive, besides, I was getting my history from Vogel's Deng Xiaoping book. I also passed over a capitalist biography of Marx opting instead for How to Change the World about Marx's increasing influence. The Inner Life of Animals, The Upright Thinkers, and Climbing Mount Improbable are all about nature and natural science by translated authors. Serendipities; Language and Lunacy, by an Italian author, seems quirky in reviewing history mistakes in literary works.   In addition, Two Russians, My Childhood by Gorky and Five Plays by Chekov in a new translation will round out the 12 Plays, 6 Plays by Ibsen with a complete Shakespeare, and numerous others in the books rescued from the meeting room; Chekov appears in none of the anthologies! Memories of Mount Qilai, is an autobiographical book from a Taiwanese poet I'd like to get to know. Grown-Up Anger, connecting Woody Guthrie with 'Bob Dylan' (his name used mostly as a come-on for readers that know no other topical folksinger) is a memoir from a radicalized baby-boomer. Nickel and Dimed, a book I know intrinsically but never read is finally on my shelf next to Fast Food Nation. The New Yiddish Kitchen's recipes will soon be on my dinner table. I couldn't pass up a condensed illustrated version of Moby Dick nor could I let The Wizard of Oz, with its odd rubbery green cover, pass me by any more than The Island of Doctor Moreau. Last but not least was a 5 CD abridged reading of Les Miserables for 437-$14 and a deluxe 3-CD second album set of The Verve. The total cost after discount was 6513, about $220 for 17 items. I would go back to see if there was anything added worthwhile but I was in no hurry. The sale would continue a few more weeks until the first week in December.

          There have been a lot of voices in my head recently. It started when I rescued the trove of literature from the meeting room. All the great writers, mostly in first language English, have been beckoning me in my dreams to read their works. The onrush of authors started before the books came into my possession when I picked up a paperback copy of Edgar Allen Poems at Caves to read “The Raven” for Halloween with private students. Who could have known that a beautiful red hard-cover collection of Poe would be coming my way soon? And Joyce, Hemingway, O'Hara, Shakespeare, Ibsen, Puzo, just to mention a few, and anthologies that cover the depth and breadth of English language literature, poetry, and drama. It was amazing! But of all the literature at my fingertips, what had I chosen to read? The Wizard of Oz from the Eslite clearance sale while continuing Deng Xiaoping by Vogel; Americans by David Frost and The Godfather are the first two works from the trove I have delved into.

          The next week I took four more books from the meeting room; two handbooks on birds of Taiwan, one of birds from Japan, and the last, Problems in Prose, by Paul Haines; a handy hard cover textbook of short stories and excerpts with questions to understand how they were written so a student could write his own. It was published in 1962. Most of the authors are obscure and haven't passed the test of time.

            It turns out, Mr. George D. Chow, the English major in college, left me an amazing collection. I hope he was happy reading them while a student. It couldn’t have been easy as the translations in the margins show. I wish he had written more clearly in Chinese. At first glance, his shorthand makes it hard to make use of his notes for me to study Mandarin.

         Meanwhile, I had returned and gotten a few more books and LP's at the Eslite sale and my wife got six books for 500. I didn’t plan on buying any more. Some of my purchases were frivolous. The rock group Verve’s second CD set and The Pencil Perfect, in particular. Others were highly selective and I put two-thirds of the titles I accumulated back. Interestingly, I got another book on Marxism and a third about how Marxism can go forward in China. I read 20 pages that evening of the newest acquisition, A World to Win by Sven-Eric Liedman that, interestingly, disparaged another book on Marxism I had in hand but chose not to buy (Karl Marx; Greatness and Illusion by Gareth Stedman Jones) and another I bought last week (How to Change The World; Tales of Marx and Marxism, by Erik Hobsbawm) that he recommended. I didn't get any books on modern Chinese history, thought I looked for and didn't find the Jiang Ching biography I thought I might pick up after all; someone else had bought it. I got a book on European colonization of Africa, Empires in the Sun; The Struggle for Mastery of Africa by Lawrence James; a subject I have not read about in detail yet; Africa remains the mysterious part of my education. 

          On another note (pun intended) The LP's I got were an unreleased Tim Buckley (“Look at the Fool”) The Small Face collection, ”From the Beginning” on Decca that, ironically, I had ordered a few before on eBay.  “Tumbleweed Connection” was an album I was thinking about earlier in the year when I was on my Elton John kick, and the last Move album, “Message from the Country”. Both Move and Small Faces have accompanying codes to download MP3 versions but I couldn't seem to figure out how to do it when I tried. The Move download may have extra cuts including "Do Ya" so I'll try again. I have a number of albums I wish I could upload into the PC and download into the Walkman and the turntable system I bought a few years ago has terrible sound.

            While sitting on the toilet I read about Chaucer during my morning dump, and the first verse of Canterbury Tales. The day before I started reading The Battle for China’s Past, its introduction and up to page six. In the morning in Tan-Zih Park, I read Smarter than Man? up to page thirty. I read Richard Dawkins’ Climbing Mount Improbable intro and up to page eight as I sat in the living room. The day before, I had read Liedman’s A World to Win up to page twenty-one at the riverside. In short, I’d been doing a lot of reading but doing no writing or revising of my own works. All in its own good time.

December 3, 2020

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Wednesday, September 2, 2020

Photo Essay: Pearly New Gateway to the Tan-Zih Bike Path













Baseball Resumes in Taichung and then L.A.


 On May 8, Taiwan's professional baseball league became the first in the world to play before spectators, admitting up to 1,000 fans to each of its two scheduled games that Friday evening. That evening the China Trust Banking Corp (CTBC) Brothers hosted the Rakuten Monkeys at Taichung's Intercontinental Baseball Stadium. They played again a month later, but the game on Thursday, June 11 was called because of rain in the middle of the third inning with the Monkeys leading 4-0. The game was continued and completed on July 8 with the Monkeys winning 6-5. I was in the stands along with another thousand fans of a total 3,000 permitted by then. The Chinese Professional Baseball League (CPBL) had played a total of 33 games before empty stands since beginning its season on April 12.

The week before I erroneously went to see a game that wasn't being played. I was looking at the original schedule that was still posted on the internet. On the twenty minute bike ride from home to the stadium, it started to rain. I waited it out under the highway #74 underpass near the West Han River Road. amd left as soon as the storm passed. I thought the game would be played after all and was very excited to see live baseball after what had been going on since February with the covid-19 pandemic.

On July 1, I decided to see a game but when I got to the stadium, there was nobody there. The parking lot was empty and the ticket windows were shuttered. I proceeded to sit down at some outdoor snack tables and ate the two hot dogs on buns with sour kraut and mustard I had prepared before I rode home. I made the best of it and  had a good time anyway. When I got home my wife helped me locate the revamped schedule and I set my sights on the game scheduled for the following week.
When I got to the ballpark on July 8, there were plenty of people around. I locked my bike up on the sidewalk, put on my Brothers cap, and walked to the ticket booth. They handed me two tickets stapled together and charged me 350 NT- $12 but I didn't know why, nor did I pay attention to the seat number: section B, row 19 seat 30; I was going to sit where I liked. 

It was not easy getting into the stadium because of the precautions being taken to prevent the spread of the corona-virus. First, I went to a station where I was asked to write my phone number on the ticket stub, then to a station where a young lady checked that I had a mask and took my temperature with a heat gun. When I got to the steps before entering, another station with two young men asked to see my ID and tickets; they wanted to be able to do contact tracing in case they found out someone carried the virus into the ballpark. I didn't bring my ID so he looked at the phone number I wrote and called getting no answer. I told him it was my wife's number and he asked me for my own which I hadn't memorized and had to look for, When I finally found it and gave it to him he called me on his cellphone and made sure he saw my phone responded with a blinking light before letting me up the stairs, 
I took a seat seven rows up from the field just left of home plate and made myself comfortable. There was at least one empty seat between fans but only half were wearing masks during the game. I kept mine on for a while but took it off to eat and drink the three cans of Red Horse beer I had brought along with two more hot dogs on buns with sour kraut. Later, a securit guard came around and made sure everyone was wearing their masks and socially distanced. 

The la-la team is amazing. They stand on each dugout and dance during the inning when the home team is up. They don't wait for between innings, and the sym-phony doesn't stop playing, either. The players don't seem to mind, just as they don't in Japan or Korea. In the USA, I don't know how the players and fans would react. Would they blow their tops or like it? The cute women might be a distraction but I didn't mind so long as they weren't in my line of sight.

          On July 23 (the morning of the 24th in Taiwan) I caught the opening night of the 2020 MLB season in an empty Dodger stadium on FOX Sports cable channel at ten o'clock in the morning Taiwan Time; seven o'clock in the evening in L.A. They beat the Giants 6-1. There are to play a 60 game season with an extended playoff including the first two teams and wild cards in each division for what could be 800 games including World Series. Relief pitchers must pitch to three batters. There’s a 40 man roster. The piped in crowd noise and hundreds of cardboard figures affixed to the seats behind home plate were hilarious. To hear Joc Pederson clearly yell “Fuck” in the silence as he ran to first after popping the ball up was precious. Despite it all, I could see how important Mookie Betts will be to ignite the Dodger rallies as he got his first hit, made it to third on outs, and scored diving into home plate on a ground ball by Turner. Bellinger got in a run-down on the third base line that enabled two runners to move up into scoring position who then scored on a hit by Hernandez opening up a 1-1 tie. It was great seeing them play again; a much higher caliber that any baseball from Asia.






Costco Coming to Taichung's Northside









 



Her Baseball Boyfriend

 


          Sunday morning, August, 30,  I went with Shieh-Chi, my wife's niece, to the baseball field near Yi-Zhong Street to watch her boyfriend play shortstop on their National Kaohsiung University of Science and Technology (Dao-Ke Da) against Ming-Shing College team from Hsinchu. His team lost 7-0 in a sudden death in the bottom of the sixth; I guess a seven run deficit ended the game after a certain number of innings, perhaps five for an official game. There were many errors, called and uncalled, and a number of passed balls, wild pitches, and misplayed balls and opportunities. There were a total of eleven struck out (with two walked) on her boyfriend’s team while their pitcher walked four and struck out six. Dao-Ke had one hit; Min-Shing had six including four in a four-run second inning. I didn’t get the players’ names other than Son Zhen-Ning’s, but got most  of their numbers and field positions, though Dao-Ke made it hard with fifteen players used.









Tuesday, August 18, 2020

Overnight in Tainan


Lin's department store, Tainan; the first in Taiwan, built in Japanese times 

          On Sunday, August  16, 2020,  my wife and I got on a Taiwan Snail-road train for the nice two hour ride from Taichung. Whatever we did in Tainan would be nice, and we would meet her sister and her husband for dinner. Monday morning the pool at the hotel would be open; I would be ready. We had made no other plans fore Tainan.  We had been there a few times since retiring in Taiwan in 2012, and I even participated in the 32 International Congress of Poets there. I had suggested a few places to visit  (the beach, An-ping) but she nixed the ideas. I was not sure  what we would do or when we would return Monday but I knew we would enjoy whatever we did. We took Taiwan Railroad because the station is downtown while the HSR is a forty-five minute drive away. 

Our trip began at Taichung Train Station. Here is a view of what is to be an avenue connecting the east and west sides of the station. To do so, a tall building had to be dismantled (see fenced in area) to the underpass where motor scooters are now parked. Notice the ingenious use of soda cans (top left) to channel a leak, not very well as a puddle shows.   

When we arrived, we walked ten minutes to a traffic circle where, 
across from the restored city hall, stands the newly open restored Fire Museum. 


At lunchtime, we walked  a short distance to Hai-an Road Sec. 1 where, inside a market, we found  Chikan Eatery, a long-established stall that served authentic Tainan Coffin Toast


It was time to take a nap so we checked in to our lodgings for the night, Silks Place.

The next morning, I swam 25 laps in their fourth floor heated pool before breakfast

The evening began with a taxi ride to Hai-an Road Sec. 1 where we met 
my wife's sister and husband for a Tainan style seafood dinner. 
Not far from the restaurant walked to an ally of 19th century buildings named Shen-nong Street;
 it was saved from demolition and turned into an artisan center 


Under the length of Hai-An Road  Sec. 1 is a parking lot that was originally supposed to be come a shopping mall but ran into red tape and politics. Along the road are over sized entrances mostly unused. Below is an air vent for the parking lot covered with pretty metalwork grilling.   

After a hearty western breakfast that came with the hotel booking, we packed our bag and took a ride to Wu's Garden; another landmark that was under renovation last time we visited Tainan.
 
The main exhibit hall of the above structure, under original Japanese wood roofing, was a memorial
 to recently deceased Tainan  lawyer and historian, Hsieh Pi-Lien

In another room of the main building was an exhibit of poetry called "Reading Wood." 
Another building on site was the original Japanese kitchen on the premises of Mr. Wu,  a 19th century businessman who made a fortune in salt export before the Japanese arrived. It is now used for little events with catering done on the premises. This nice curator made us Oriental Beauty tea. 

          There is no place like home, especially after a return from a trip, but I get tired of being home when I don't travel somewhere. Our overnight trip to Tainan was fine. We had the right attitude and enjoyed ourselves. I wouldn't mind traveling overnight somewhere in Taiwan monthly. There are a lot of little things to seek and find in the mostly ugly urban hellhole. I would love to go into the mountains or the east coast.

          Every Road Leads to Tainan is the bilingual collection of essays about the highways through Tainan. I asked the attendant of the Japanese restaurant house at Wu's Garden for any book in English and she handed me that, but it bought us a lovely tea tasting with the resident Tainan historian as we overheard a small gathering listening to folksy guitar singing in the small seated area adjourning. Later, in the food court of a department store before we returned to the train station, a nixed trip to Taipei was appeased by my wife by ordering Silk Roads from the bookstore there, so I had two road books from our journey; the one we were on and the one not taken.