Hsinchu: Yakiniku-Futago: Best Barbecue

   It takes an hour drive north of Taichung to get there, but you will have more cuts of beef than you have ever had at one sitting in this dive: F.T.G Company; I think it stands for FuTaGo. There are Futagos in cities all over Japan, in the U.S., Hong Kong, and in three Taiwan cities, including three in Taipei, one we sat at in Hsinchu (http://yakiniku-futago.com) but not in Taichung, yet. It is a tiny restaurant, with tiny booth seats, suitable for four little Asians but two typical Westerners. Each booth has a black, five-foot long, 6” diameter periscope-like air duct, hanging from the ceiling with safety valves, sucking up smoke from the meat a few inches underneath, on a gas flame hibachi grill the size of a book, on the middle of the table.

   The operation of bringing the raw cuts, placing them on the grill, roasting them right, cutting them into edible morsels with utility scissors, and placing them on your small, round, aluminum plate was not left to chance; the waiter handles it all with tiny tongs, and then removes and replaces the soiled grill top after each selection. With a tall ice-cold mug of draft Asahi beer, and sides of garlic roasting in butter oil, noodles in spicy garlic beef broth, and condiments, you will be in beef heaven.

      Mostly from Australia and Japan, all the beef,  was sublime, marinated well, and succulent. From the tenderloin to the flank, tongue, even beef heart and tripe, top of the rib, bottom of the rib, keep the dishes coming until you are dizzy and your shirt buttons start popping. Avoid the chewy large intestine though and don’t deviate with the pork melted cheese or grilled prawns; stick with the beef till the taste marinates your mouth, the fragrance coats your inner nostrils, and you can't find your way home through the alleys full of ladies of the night, to reflect on what you have done, you carnivorous devil! 

     This I will say for Futago; the waiter is as important as the chef for the right preparation, and keeping the action of the meat on the grill going, so much so that you will want to break the Taiwan code of not tipping; do it! Tip him or her, or leave with a guilty conscience and a bad taste in your mouth. Show appreciation for the best, non-stop delivery of the juiciest cuts of barbecue meats in Taiwan.

      It can take a while off Freeway #1 to get there, winding through the complicated streets of Hsinchu, the old downtown area, to the Futago Restaurant. If you do go by car, use a GPS. However, the restaurant is only a five-minute walk from the classic Japanese-built station of Taiwan Rail. Take the train. 

     Here’s a tip: Once a month they have a 50% discount; call to find out the date and make a reservation, but expect a long line outside if you go. They'll give you a coupon for the discount on your next visit. Keep your eye out for a new location in Taichung similar to Futago to be started by a former Futago associate.