2-9-15
Six days
ago we left for Siem Reap, Cambodia. We slept there four nights, and then
returned to Taiwan to sleep one night in a hotel in Taoyuan and one night in
Taichung. I wrote journal only one during the trip (on the plane going there)
and did no reading of the books I brought with me choosing to glace at an
American baseball magazine I bought at the airport and Ancient Angkor, a book I bought from one of the many children
selling outside temples for $10 us; I could have gotten it for $1 if I had
waited.
The first
day we arrived at dusk, were picked up in a Mercedes Benz van along with five
other Taiwanese and were driven by our exclusive driver and tour guide to the
first of nine restaurants, four of them buffet. Despite eating food deemed safe
from contamination, Leona and I still had diarrhea from stomach virus, hers
beginning Thursday night and mine the night we returned to Tao-yuan where I
spent the night with terrible chills. Siem Reap is a poor, dusty city of
ramshackle houses mostly built on stilts. The places we ate were all tourist
spots, mostly Chinese and South Korean.
For five
days, the tour guide, a native Chinese-Cambodian, gave a running commentary, in
Mandarin, from his front passenger seat with Leona and I in the first row
behind and the other five tourists in the third and forth rows. No one besides
the guide and Leona said hardly anything the entire trip. Occasionally, Leona
translated for me; occasionally I understood what he was saying in Mandarin.
The tour guide couldn’t speak a word of English. It is my biggest regret of the
trip that the tour guide was obviously so informed and loved talking but 99% of
it was lost on me.
Visually, and
physically, the forty temples we visited with hundreds of structures attached
was dazzling and taxing; there was a lot of climbing stone stairs and pyramid
walls. There were a million scenes that could be sat at and contemplated and
hundreds of thousands of carved images on the sandstone temple walls to inspect;
too many to pay close attention to in only a few days. All the thousands of
bare-chested women carved into the stone were different in facial expression or
gesture, but all had the same sized exposed breasts; only one had a skirt that
was half-parted. All the Hindu turned into Buddhist mythology was chiseled into
everything, even boulders in the wash of a river. The ruins of building blocks
and statues lay scattered around the ground buried and caked with soil; dozens
of temples were falling apart. A few were refurbished by the goodwill of
international donors and United Nations support in this World Heritage
Preserved Site.
Back in Taiwan,
there are still two weeks until the Lunar New Year vacation ends and I return
to my class at American Eagle on Feb.24th. I have a head start on
controlling my weight thanks to the stomach virus from Cambodia. I bought a
bottle of Cointreau at duty-free at the airport but we gave it to Ellen and
George as a gift.
3-30-15
I
was sent an e-mail from Ravi, the man I met while walking up the brook with stone
carvings to the ruins of temples in Siem Reap, Cambodia recently. He told me he
was responsible for Red Cross charity from India and I believed him. Anyway, I
am proud to have met a person I can respect unconditionally; it is rare in this
day and age.
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